- TREK
# 25

- KANCHENJUNGA
TREK - 18 NIGHTS / 19 DAYS
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Day 01: KATHMANDU/BIRATNAGAR.
A flight to Biratnagar takes 45 minutes from Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel
in Biratnagar and overnight.
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Day 02: BIRATNAGAR/TAPLEJUNG/LALIKHARKA:
To avoid clouds and wind, Taplejung flights operate early in the morning, so
you can probably accomplish a few hours of walking in the day you fly in the
Airport is on the top of ridge in SUKETAR village, far above Taplejung. from
SUKETAR, elevation 2300 meters, the trail climbs gradually along a
rhododendron covered ridge. The trail crosses the ridge and contours past
the Deorali river and four more streams to a pass at 2570 meters. Descend
through forests to LALIKHARKA. Walk approximately 4 hours.
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Day 03: LALIKHARKA/SHIKAICHA
BHANJYANG (2050 M.) 6-7 HRS.
Trek through fields to the substantial Lumbu village of THEMBEWA AT 1880
METRES. From Thembewa, the trail ascends a bit to a ridge, then drops
steeply through Shimu and Pokhara villages to a suspension bridge across the
Phawa river at 1430 meters. There is a good swimming hole here and a
possible campsite near the river. Climb steeply to Khunjari, a Limbu village
at 1700 meters. Turn left just beyond the school and climb through wheat
fields to a sadly. From here, the trail makes a long, looping traverse to
SHIKAICHA BHANJYANG, a Gurung settlement with several shops, on a pass at
2120 meters. From here, there are views of Kanchenjunga and Kyabru.
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Day 04: SHIKAICHA/MAMAMKHE
(1810 M.) 6-7 HRS.
The trek has now entered the Kabeli river valley, but you will spend the nest
two days climbing up and down, in and out of ravines and over ridges, only
to end up in Yamphudin at the bottom of the valley. Turn left from Bhanjyang
and head north just below the top of the ridge, descending to the scattered village of Keswa at 1960 m. Pass below waterfalls and cross several streams
and landslide to reach the village of Phun Phun, which is shown on some maps
with the fanciful spelling fun. Cross a saddle, with a stately Pipal tree
offering a rest in the shade, and traverse a Yangpang, then head generally
upwards through forests past a large waterfall. Descend through a series of
side valleys to two shops on a ridge at 1850 meters, then drop a bit to
Phonpe village at 1780 meters. Descend steeply through rice terraces into a
side canyon, crossing a stream on a long suspension bridge at 1540 meters,
then climb back to Mamanke, a prosperous Limbu village with Bhattis, shops
and a large school.
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Day 05: MAMANKHE/YAMPHUDIN
(1690 M.) 6-7 HRS.
Climb to a ridge and then descend gradually to the Tenguwa river. Forgo the
decrepit bridge; cross the stream by jumping from stone to stone. Switchback
steeply up to another ridge marked by a Chorten and prayer flags, then
descend across rubble and rock slides and cross another stream. This portion
of the valley is steep, and portions of the trail are on cliffs high above
the river as it makes its way down to the Kabeli river at 1640 meters. There
is a lot of flood damage here, so it becomes a rockhopping exercise, over
boulders, tree roots and intersecting stream channels as you head upstream.
Stay on the west side of the Kabeli river, climbing gently to yamphudin at
the junction of the Omje river and the Kabeli river. Yamphudin is a massed
community of Sherpas, Lumbus, Rais and Gurungs. Among the corn and rice
fields of the village there is a police post, a school, and some shops with
minimal supplies. The 1989 monsoon produced floods that washed away portions
of the village and many of its fields. A goat trail leads from Yamphudin up
the ridge to the west to Helok and the Tamurkosi Valley.
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Day 06: YAMPHUDIN/TORONTAN
(2990 M.) 7-8 HRS.
Cross the Omje river on a couple of bamboo poles and follow the Kabeli river
upstream for a short distance, ignoring the suspension bridge. After you
pass behind a ridge out of sight Yamphudin, cross a small stream and take a
trail that heads straight uphill. Zigzag up through fields of corn and
barley to Darachuk, and keep climbing past meadows to Dubi Bhanjhyang, a
pass at 2540 meters. Cross the stream on a log bridge, and go a bit further
upstream to Omje river. Trek all the way passing through the villages of
Chitre (2920 m.) lamite Bhanjyang (3410 m.0 then the trail emerges into the
open just above the Simbua river. A 1987 flood washed away large parts of
the trail. Stay above the white silty river and follow it upstream, on a
series of ascents and descents, to temporary bridge built of stones and
logs. There are campsites near the river, and also in a clearing beyond
Torantan, near a few caves.
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Day 07: TORONTAN/TSERAM
(3870 M.) 5-6 HRS.
The hike starts in forests of several varieties of rhododendron, then
crosses landslides to Tsento Kang, a Goth at 3360 meters. The deeply
forested valley is dotted with clearings, meadows and streams as it rises to
another Goth at Watha. An hour beyond is Buddhist shrine decorated with rock
cairns, prayer flags and iron, three-pronged Trisuls. The shrine is in a
cavthat has a streak of dark stone slang it, which is though to be the image
of a snake. This shrine marks the boundary of a sacred part of the valley,
beyond which the killing of animals is prohibited. Peaks begin to appear in
the distance as you climb further. There is a short stretch along the gravel
bottom of the stream bed, then a climb to Tseram, a large, flat meadow with
a single house at 3870 meters. The settlements in this valley are Goths used
by yak and cow herders from Gunsa who cross the Mirgin La to graze their
animals during the summer.
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Day 08: TSERAM/RAMCHE
(4620 M.) 6-7 HRS.
Climb through forests to a slide area; the junction of the trail to Mirgin
La is nearby, but trail is hard to find. Stumble across a stream on a loose,
rocky path and climb to some main walls and a stone house near the tree line
at 4040 meters. The peaks of Rathong and Kabru doom at the head of the
valley; it's hard to believe they are both less than 6700 metres high. The
trail climbs into the valley alongside the moraine of the Yalung Glacier.
The valley opens up as you approach Yalung, a pasture full of Yaks at 4260 meters. Climb alongside the moraine through scrub junipers up a stream to a
lake at Lapsan 4430 meters. here you can see the start of the route to the
Lapsang La headed off over the moraines in a valley to the north. Keep
climbing to another lake and a big meadow at Ramche. There are two
well-built stone houses here; one of them thinks it is a hotel, but the
owner spends so much time away that it rarely fulfils its ambitions. The
view is dominated by the spectacular Rathong peak, elevation 678 meters,
situated on the Nepal-India border to the east. Herds of blue sheep live on
the cliffs above.
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Day 09: RAMCHE/OKTANG
(4800 M.) 6-7 HRS.
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Day 10: OKTANG/RAMCHE
(4620 M.) 6½ HRS
Same way back to Ramche.
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Day 11: RAMCHE/TSERAM
(3870 M.) 7½ HRS.
- Same way back to Ramche.
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Day 12: TSERAM/GHUNSA
(3440 M.) 6-7 HRS.
Today, the trail ascent steeply 1000 meters from Simbua river valley and
cross five passes i.e., unnamed pass of 4724 meters, Mirgin La 4663 m.,
Sinion La 4660 m., an unnamed 4115 m. an a final Tamo La 3900 m. The route
enters the Gunsa Village at 3440 m. Gunsa is slowly developing into a
trekking village and has a few shops and lodges. The prayer flag bedecked
houses of Gunsa (which means "winter settlement") are on the south
side of the river at 3430 meters. The police check-post in Gunsa take itself
very seriously.
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Day 13: GUNS/KYAPRA
(2730 M.) 6-7 HRS.
The valley widens as you trek through fields and larch forests to a Tibetan
village PHERA with pleasant Gompas and friendly monks; you may find a better
supply of food, especially potatoes. Follow along the river through a fir
and rhododendron forest into a side ravine the ascend steeply towards Kyapra,
called Chapla or Gaabla by the Tibetan inhabitants.
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Day 14: KYAPRA/GHAIYA
BARI (2530 M.) 7-8 HRS.
From here climb steeply down to a large waterfall in the Gunsa river. The
trail makes many short climb and descents and passes several waterfalls and
pastures. Trek into lush bamboo, oak rhododendron forests with views of
Nango Ma and the south-west part of the Kanchenjunga Massif. Descend for 100
meters, to the Tibetan settlement of Amjilassa at 2490 meters. From here the
descent becomes gentler to the settlement of Ghaiya Bari, today's our
camping place.
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Day 15: GHAIYA BARI/CHIRWA
(1190 M.) 7-8 HRS.
Follow the river bed for about a km. and descend steeply for 100 metres. The
hike is along a steep, narrow trail up the north bank of the Ghunsa river.
You will have a good views of Jannu up the Ghunsa river valley. The trail
makes more ups & downs, traverses a landslide, crosses the Tamua river
on a suspension bridge above the village of Helok. There is a teashop near
the junction where the trail to the Limbu village of Helok leaves the main
Tamur Kosi route. There is a bridge across the Tamur that leads to the
Chhetri village of Tapethon and continue to the Chirwa, a pleasant bazaar
with a few shops at 1190 meters. Take a look at the village water-supply
system. It's an elaborate setup of bamboo chutes, pipes and channels that
Rube Goldberg or health Robinson would have been proud of - if it has not
yet been replaced with plastic pipe.
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Day 16: CHIRWA/GADI
DANDA (APPROX. 820M
) 6-7 HRS.
Trek all the way down, passing through scattered villages of Pirke, Tawa and
Siwa. After about 45 minutes cross the river on a bamboo bridge to reach the
ridge of Sisnu walk gently towards Gadi Danda.
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Day
17: GADI DANDA/DHOBHAN (640 M.) 6-7 HRS.
Today the trail descends all the way down the Dhoban. Dhoban is a
small, grabby Newar bazaar town with shops selling soap, tooth paste,
thread, sandals, beera and rums. Many Tibetans live in flimsy bamboo
shelters alongside the bazaar, and sell tongba and weave woolen scarves and
aprons.
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Day 18: DHOBHAN/TAPLEJUNG
(1480 M.) 4-5 HRS.
From here, trek all the way on the Ilam Taplejung road leaving the
Basantapur trekking trail on right side.
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Day 19:
After breakfast, walk to Taplejung Airport to board Biratnagar flight.
Arrival Biratnager Airport again to board Kathmandu flight. Arrival
Kathmandu meet and transfer to hotel.
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